It's only twelve miles south of Charleston's historic homes and manicured window boxes, but the salty little town of Folly Beach ditches the Holy City's refinement in favor of an easygoing, barefoot sensibility that feels a bit more California than Carolina. Known to locals as the Edge of America, Folly is everything a beach town should be. Surf shops line the main drag; cover-ups count as appropriate lunch attire; and nobody takes themselves too seriously (they drop a pair of LED-lit flip-flops to celebrate New Year's Eve). Here's where to stay, eat, relax, and play in South Carolina's super chill surf town.

Where to Stay

For a feels-like-home experience coupled with the charm and convenience of a boutique hotel (complimentary breakfast and happy hour daily, plus a free shuttle to the beach), book The Regatta Inn. Its best amenity of all, though, is the view: a spectacular vantage of Folly River and the surrounding marshland.

Every single room at Tides Folly Beach comes with an ocean view. Perched at the end of Center Street, the town's main thoroughfare, the hotel is steps from both the beach and an array of local shops and eateries.

For families looking to stretch out a bit more, there are a boatload of rentals to choose from: Opt for ocean-front properties that will sleep a crowd or cozy cottages with marsh and Folly River views. And for people who wouldn't dream of traveling without their four-legged companions, there are plenty of pet-friendly rentals too.

Where to Eat

You won't go hungry on this island. Fuel up for the day at Lost Dog Café, a local staple that serves coffee and all-day breakfast (so you can sleep in as long as you'd like). Don't miss their Lowcountry eggs Benedict, which they top with fried green tomatoes.

Fish tacos, Vietnamese-inspired lettuce wraps, and Cuban sandwiches all have a place on the colorful menu at Chico Feo, where the vibe is equally colorful. If you're in town for the wave-riding, be sure to check out their website's Surf Report, complete with a live video stream.

Don't let the easygoing atmosphere fool you: Rita's Seaside Grille is serious about its food...and its cocktails. Try one of the Signature Crushes, fruity sippers with flavored liquors that pack a punch.

End the night at Sand Dollar Social Club, a dive bar where you're invited to come as you are, so long as you're a member; membership costs $1, so bring your cash (you won't find a credit card machine here).

Though technically not on Folly (it's about two miles away), you'd be remiss to make a trip all this way without carving out time for a meal at family-owned Bowens Island Restaurant, a family-owned joint where the walls are graffitied and the oysters are locally harvested.

Where to Relax

The island's six miles of beachfront are its main attraction, and it'd be easy to while away a week with no plans beyond putting your toes in the sand. Spend a day shelling, sunning, surfing, or searching for shark teeth.

At the northern end of Folly Beach, the Morris Island Lighthouse provides a stunning backdrop from the shore. Get a closer look from the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve or via kayak. Several guided tours leave from Folly Beach to visit Morris Island for shelling, photography, and lighthouse history. The historic lighthouse is not open for viewing. How close you can get to the lighthouse depends on the tides.

Where to Play

Pack your fishing poles (or rent one) to test your fishing luck off the beloved Folly Beach Pier, which reopened in December 2022 after extensive renovations. If you're visiting in the summer, put on your dancing shoes—flip-flops count!—and head back to the Pier for one of the Moonlight Mixers, a music-filled family event held once monthly May through September.

For those looking to build an action-packed itinerary, there are plenty of activities that highlight the destination's natural beauty: Book a guided kayak tour with Charleston Outdoor Adventures, rent a stand-up paddleboard to explore the tidal creeks, or hop on a boat to discover uninhabited beachfront, where you can look for sharks' teeth and other fossils.

Stop by McKevlin's Surf Shop, South Carolina's oldest surfing outfitter, to peruse their selection of gear. You can also rent a surf or body board from the shop if you don't have one of your own; first-timers should consult their recommended list of surf instructors. Once you've got it down, catch some of the area's best waves at The Washout—or take a seat on the beach and see how the local pros do it.

South Carolina is famous for its beaches, but I didn’t know them. Folly Beach, which I discovered looking for escape from a dark, grueling New York City winter, advertised exceptional surf breaks and beach town tradition. Yeah, I thought, Folly Beach! Brilliant water, four-generation family beach houses, surfer subculture, and only one bridge on and off the island; my Southern friends were surprised I’d found it.

I missed kicking off the new year with the “Bill Murray look-alike” polar bear plunge, for which one dresses like a favorite Murray character and runs into the ocean. Motto: Freeze your balls off! No matter, I was just happy to find it was 20 degrees warmer than New York, and empty except for year-round people and diehard surfers. End to end, Folly is only six miles of wide beaches broken and protected by a series of jetties, and I planned to walk them all.

My rented house faced “The Washout,” a long beach break that got rowdy during storm swells and on windy days when the blow whipped up classic, rolling surf. A 20-minute walk up the beach was the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve with nesting sites for threatened loggerhead turtles. A local said you could find shark’s teeth there, but I never really looked. Off the beach, was marshland and maritime forest with stopover and winter roosting sites for flyway birds including the endangered piping plovers that I saw.

If I walked west, I would end up at Folly Beach County Park, acres of bone-white sand and scrub dunes bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the wide (at that point) Folly River. A day-tripper magnet between Memorial Day and Labor Day, it was now almost deserted except for people walking with dogs (only allowed in winter).

I had been warned about the weather, but on some of my best days the rain would come and go several times, leaving a freshness on the magnolias that perfumed the salt air coming off the water. My backyard had magnolias, too, and two stands of 60-foot palmetto palms with large fronds, as well as hemlocks with dense green umbrella tops— excellent nesting cover for the robins, mockingbirds, and woodpeckers that fed on the palmetto cones and seeds. A swinging back gate opened onto wetlands that rose and fell with the tide.

By the time my month was up, the lessons of Folly would stay with me in the specifics. The birds and the trees and the long beach walks, learning the tides, the endlessly changing rhythms of the Atlantic. The way the sun would rise over the wetlands just outside my back gate, where early one morning I saw a family of raccoons, perhaps heading for the preserve.

Driving north over the Folly River Bridge at the end of my month, I knew that hordes would descend all summer and surfers would complain it was too crowded just to go left. But those high-season inconveniences weren’t my concern. For a month in the middle of winter, Folly was the perfect beach.

• • •

Terry McDonell is a media executive, literary editor, and published author. He has won numerous awards for his editorial work at various magazines and websites and has written and produced for film and television. Known for his acclaimed book The Accidental Life, McDonell returned to memoir with his most recent book, Irma: The Education of a Mother’s Son.

This article appears in the Winter 2023 issue of Southbound.

CHARLESTON COUNTY, S.C. (WCIV) — After heavy rain, wind, and waves along the shores on Sunday, beaches are still recovering.

One Folly Beach staff member said, on average, about 20 feet of sand dunes were pushed back to land. Thursday, the Coastal Science and Engineering team visited FollyBeach for a scheduled data collection trip.

“If you go down to the Isle of Palms or to Folly Beach portions of those communities that, before the storm, had a high dune or had a lot of sand in front of the houses, actually faired relatively well," Patrick Barrineau said.

Barrineau is the vice president of Coastal Science and Engineering, a group that collects data and studies coastal zones. They are headquartered in Columbia.

Read more: "USS Yorktown shifts due to Nor'easter storm, Patriots Point Museum temporarily closes."

"Portions of the beach that had a relatively narrow beach or had relatively low dunes did not [fair well],” Barrineau added. “We ended up seeing some damage. So it's a mixed bag. It depends on the recent project history.”

Barrineau said the Coastal Science team has been collecting data for the state for about a decade.

“We're ultimately looking at the elevation of the beach surface, how it changes over time," he said. "We're measuring it from where it doesn't change. So, landward of the dune out to 20, 30, 40 feet deep waterway offshore. And using those elevation data, we can sort of group certain profiles together that are adjacent to one another and keep track of the volume of the beach over time."

The goal is to provide helpful information to protect land and property during storms like the Nor'easter.

Read more: "Edisto Beach feels impact of Sunday Nor'easter."

"And there are pretty strong relationships between the amount of storm damage you see after an event like what we saw on Sunday and the volume of a beach," Barrineau said. "So, if you can maintain a certain threshold, minimum ideal volume, then you can sort of guarantee your community that storms up to a certain intensity will not cause substantial damage."

The United States Army Corps of Engineers Charleston District said they plan to award a construction contract to an upcoming renourishment project, aimed to be completed before the 2024 hurricane season.

FOLLY BEACH — Folly Beach will be renourished with around 130,000 dump trucks worth of sand this year. The renourishment process will begin in late February or early March 2024 and should end ahead of peak hurricane season, according to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Charleston District.

Folly Beach Director of Public Works Eric Lutz said the renourishment is well-timed, due to severe erosion caused by storms such as Hurricane Ian in 2022 and the nor’easter in December 2023.

“The timing couldn't be better, and we're really hoping we don't get too many more storms before they get started,” he said.

The National Weather Service forecasts a wet winter for Charleston, with above-average rainfall and potential for unseasonably strong storms such as the nor’easter that caught the region by surprise last month. That storm pushed Folly Beach’s sand dunes back as much as 20 feet.

During severe weather events, beaches and dunes provide communities a buffer from the wind and ocean. Lutz said they’re meant to be “sacrificial.”

“We know (the beach) is going to get eroded over time, but it's either that or we lose buildings, houses or half of our economy,” Lutz said.

Lutz estimated that for every dollar spent on renourishing Folly Beach, or any of the state’s beaches, $30 is earned in revenue from tourism.

“The beaches generate tons of revenue for tourism,” he said. “(The beach) is a huge economic engine.”

Folly Beach has received five renourishments in the last three decades, costing $77 million, which came from federal tax dollars and local funds, The Post and Courier previously reported. The upcoming renourishment will cost $18 million and will be funded entirely by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

It's springtime in Charleston and the sun is shining. Most of the time.

A partial solar eclipse is set to darken the skies over South Carolina on April 8. In Charleston, nearly three-quarters of the sun will be obscured by the moon's shadow during the eclipse's peak at about 3:10 p.m. Will that have any impact on the day's gravitationally driven tidal cycle?

Not really, according to the National Weather Service's Charleston office. But water levels will be higher than normal that day for a semi-related reason.

The ocean's tidal cycle is dictated by the movement of the moon and the sun. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration describes that liquid movement as "long-period waves" that slosh around Earth's surface.

Solar eclipses occur during the moon's "new" phase, the first step in the lunar cycle. April 8's new moon is also a "perigean spring tide" — when the moon is either full or new and at its closest point to the Earth. That proximity amplifies its pull on the planet's waters, according to the weather service.

"Therefore, astronomical high tides will be running higher than normal, but this is due to the New Moon and the perigee, not the eclipse," a weather service official wrote in an email.

Perigean spring tides go by another, non-scientific name that can conjure fear in the hearts of peninsula residents: king tides. Those extra-high tides are infamous for their ability to swamp Charleston's low-lying neighborhoods. Tropical Storm Idalia occurred simultaneously with a "blue moon" king tide in August 2023, bringing one of the highest tide levels on record to the city.

The April 8 evening high tide is predicted to hit 6.6 feet by 8:45 p.m., a few inches below a "minor" flood stage of 7 feet. The evening high tide for April 9 is predicted to be closer to 6.7 feet around 9:30 p.m.

Have you visited Folly Beach, SC? No matter what kind of beach trip you are looking for, you can find it on the barrier islands of Charleston, South Carolina. Folly Beach is your best bet for the perfect mix of relaxing beaches and spots to dine. Folly Island is 18 square miles of sand and sun and offers a beach town vibe just 20 minutes from the tourist attractions of Charleston.

This article includes:Public Beach Access on Folly IslandFolly Island Places to Eat

Take A Trip To Visit More Beaches That Are Located Not Far From The Upstate!

Folly Island On The Coast Of South Carolina

The beaches of the Low Country offer something for everyone when it comes to a beach trip. For a quiet, non-commercialized beach experience, Kiawah Island’s Beach Walker Park is my go-to option. However, if a tourist-heavy, commercialized expertise is what you seek, Isle Of Palms fits the bill.

If a sandy spot somewhere in the middle of both is what you want, then the beaches of Folly Island are perfect. They are family-friendly, quiet, and some access points have restrooms and showers for beachgoers to use. The downtown area of Folly Island offers a funky beach town vibe that’s solidified its place in the history of the SC coast.

Here’s a Great Map of Folly Island To Show The Kids

Where to Stay Near Folly Beach, SC

This Stay 22 Map contains affiliate links that will help you find the perfect place to stay near Folly Beach!

Accessing The Beach On Folly Island

With six miles of shoreline, there’s no shortage of sand to spread out on when visiting Folly Beach. Finding beach access isn’t difficult, but depending on your family’s needs, one access might be more suitable than another.

Located on the southern tip of Folly Island, the county park offers families all of the amenities they might need including showers, restrooms, a seasonal concession stand, seasonal lifeguards, and chair rentals.

The parking fees range from $5-$20, depending on the season, and are $20 on weekends and summer holidays. Park gates are open from 8 am to sunset.

The Folly Beach Ocean Park is located at the end of West Arctic Avenue. It offers beachgoers restroom and shower facilities that are free and open to the public (currently only open during the summer.)

At the end of nearly every block on the island there is a beach access pathway. Some spots include parking if space permits, otherwise you can park streetside.

The further you drive away from the pier, the less the metered parking costs. By quite a bit. If you aren’t trying to be right next to the pier and center street, drive a few miles north to find cheaper meter rates. The parking meter fees can be paid through a kiosk, or with the PARK Folly Beach app.

The centerpiece of Folly Island is the Folly Beach Pier. The pier was recently renovated. Amenities at Folly Beach Pier include the gift shop, restrooms, showers, changing rooms, and wheelchair beach access.

The Pier 101 Restaurant is open Wednesday through Monday, and offers seafood, sandwiches, and more!

Swimming is permitted on the beach that flanks the sides of the pier, however, the undertow can become dangerous near the pier causing unsafe conditions. Also, people throw baited hooks off of that pier looking to catch “a big un”. I don’t know about you, but I would prefer not to be swimming near where people are reeling in jaws.

The parking fees range from $5-$20, depending on the season, and are $20 on weekends and summer holidays. Pier hours vary by season, so be sure to check the park’s site before venturing out.

Places To Eat On Folly Island

There are plenty of spots to choose from when it comes to meals on Folly Island. These are just a few of our favorites when we head out to spend the day on Folly Beach.

Taco BoyAmeri-mex style food with a kid’s menu, and a full bar. Great spot for nachos and margs after a day on the beach.

The Lost Dog Cafe

The perfect spot for breakfast or brunch, The Lost Dog has sandwiches, burgers, breakfast (all day), and more.

Saint James Gate Proper Irish Pub & Three Monkey’s Ice CreamThe menu here has a little bit of everything, including tacos. It’s kid & dog-friendly! Plus they have some delicious dessert options.

The Pineapple HutIf you spend any time on Folly Island, you are bound to see people walking down the street with a pineapple in their hands. This food truck is where it came from, filled with Dole Whip, or one of their weekly special flavors of soft-serve style ice cream. (March through November).

If you want to extend your trip, head over to Mount Pleasant for a bunch of free things to do while you’re there!